Mature skin doesn’t have a standard definition. There isn’t a specific age that, once crossed, puts you in this category. But dermatologists say that your skin starts to change in your forties, when concerns like dryness, fine lines, and wrinkles become more common.
“Oil and collagen production peak from ages 15 to 25, and then we ride that wave until our forties,” says Heather Rogers, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and cofounder of Modern Dermatology in Seattle.
Production of the sex hormone estrogen typically begins to decline in perimenopause, the time period about 8 to 10 years before menopause, which usually starts in a woman’s mid-forties. As a result, decreases in oil and collagen production leave skin dryer, more irritated, and more prone to developing fine lines and wrinkles.
Age is just a number, but if your skin is exhibiting signs of aging that concern you, these dermatologist-recommended skin-care hacks may help.
1. Tweak Your Retinoid
Retinoids are a vitamin A derivative that can improve skin cell turnover and collagen production, decrease discoloration, and help smooth lines and wrinkles.Exactly who should use retinoids and when you should start is based on your skin concerns and medical history (for example, they can’t be used during pregnancy or while breastfeeding), so it’s best to consult with a dermatologist.
However, as skin matures and becomes more dry, it may be more prone to irritation from retinoids. “Their forties are one of the first times people notice that skin-care ingredients are irritating their skin. They may have used a product for years but can’t tolerate it now,” says Dr. Rogers.
If that sounds like your experience, you don’t necessarily have to give up on retinoids. Rogers recommends making one of these tolerance-boosting tweaks to how you use them:
Reduce Frequency Use your retinoid every other day, instead of daily.
Reduce the Amount If your dermatologist previously recommended applying a pea-sized amount to your skin, ask them about a smaller dose.
Shift the Product If you’ve been using a prescription-strength retinoid, try a retinol instead (a less potent over-the-counter version). If that’s still too much, you can consider using bakuchiol, a plant extract that can also stimulate collagen production but with less risk of side effects, suggests Rogers. One systematic review of 29 articles concluded that bakuchiol is a retinol alternative with anti-aging, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties, but it noted that additional studies are warranted.
2. Try Skin ‘Slugging’
Dryness is a common problem for mature skin, due to the aforementioned reduction in oil production.One hack for hydration? Try “slugging,” or applying a thick cream or ointment as a second layer over your regular moisturizer before bedtime. “This will seal in hydration while you sleep,” Rogers says. One product that many people use to create that protective layer on top is petroleum jelly.
3. Spray on Midday SPF
One of the hallmarks of good skin care — no matter your age — is using a broad-spectrum sunscreen every morning.
Dermatologists also recommend reapplying sunscreen every two hours if you’re outside or if you’re exposed to the sun in other ways (such as riding in a car).That’s not always practical, especially if you have makeup on. In that case, you have three options that both preserve your existing makeup and protect your skin, says Rogers:
Apply a tinted sunscreen (and reapply as needed).
Touch up with makeup that contains sunscreen (like a powder).
Spritz on a facial mist sunscreen (and reapply as needed).
4. Reconsider Washing Your Face in the Morning if Your Skin Is Dry
But that doesn’t mean you should roll out of bed and just go about your day. Rogers recommends splashing your face with lukewarm water and gently blotting off excess moisture with a towel. Starting with a clean — but not stripped — canvas allows the active ingredients in your morning skin-care routine to be better absorbed into your skin, she explains.
If you do use a cleanser, minimize dryness and irritation by washing your face with one that is gentle, nonirritating, and fragrance-free, says Jessica Garelik, DO, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (You can identify one of these by the label, which will use words like “gentle,” “fragrance-free,” “for sensitive skin,” or “barrier protecting.”) To make sure your cleanser is hydrating, look for products with ingredients that help lock in moisture, including lipids, ceramides, or humectants, Dr. Garelik recommends.
5. Change Up Your Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that may soak up and neutralize skin-damaging free radicals. Plus, vitamin C may also boost collagen to promote firmer, smoother skin, and it inhibits the production of melanin (skin pigment) to decrease discoloration.
Rogers recommends applying a vitamin C serum to clean or freshly water-splashed skin in the morning. (You can start using these products in your twenties, though they can be beneficial at any age.)
Vitamin C is acidic, and it can cause irritation (especially for more irritation-prone, dry, mature skin), so Rogers recommends looking for a formulation that contains THD ascorbate, a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (this will be noted on the label or in the product description). “THD is much better tolerated by mature skin,” she says. That’s because the THD version has a neutral pH, which is gentler on skin.
6. Fit in Regular Exercise
Research suggests that regular exercise may increase blood flow to the skin, boost skin moisture, and improve skin structure, possibly by affecting hormone secretion, though further studies are needed.
“Exercise promotes blood flow to muscle and to the skin, particularly body skin that has laxity or cellulite,” says Rogers. For overall health, aim for 30 minutes per day of moderate exercise most days of the week.
7. Use the Right Eye Cream
Age-related discoloration, puffiness, and wrinkles are common eye area concerns. Using an eye cream may be helpful in improving the appearance of the skin around your eyes, Garelik says, and this can be started at any age, beginning in your twenties.
According to research, specific eye cream ingredients may help with the following issues:
For Hyperpigmentation Niacinamide, caffeine, vitamin E, and vitamin C
For Puffiness Caffeine
For Wrinkles Caffeine, retinol, vitamin C, peptides, hyaluronic acid, or niacinamide
In addition, if you’re struggling with eye puffiness, using cool compresses, sleeping with your head slightly elevated, and limiting high-sodium foods can all help deflate the eye area, says Garelik.
Some medical conditions, such as allergies or thyroid disease, can also cause under-eye puffiness, she adds. See a board-certified dermatologist for an evaluation, and they can help identify the cause and create a treatment plan that’s specific for you.
8. Consider Oral Collagen
Collagen is a protein in the body that supports the structure of skin and connective tissues. Rogers recommends asking your dermatologist about oral collagen, a supplement that may improve the appearance of skin aging. Some dermatologists specifically recommend hydrolyzed collagen, a form of oral collagen that is easy to digest and better absorbed.
Although studies are mixed and research is limited and evolving, one recent systematic review and meta-analysis out of Taiwan of 26 randomized controlled trials involving 1,721 patients found that oral collagen supplementation significantly improved skin hydration and elasticity, compared with the placebo group. However, researchers noted that further large-scale trials are necessary to confirm these findings.
“Oral collagen is not life-changing, and studies suggest a small improvement in fine lines around the eyes. It is well-tolerated and easy to take [for most healthy people]. I use it myself,” Rogers says.
Be sure to speak to your healthcare provider before starting oral collagen — or any supplement — as supplements are not regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and may interact with certain conditions and drugs. One consideration when taking collagen is it may contain toxins and heavy metals, given that it’s typically made from animal parts. Always look for a supplement that has third-party testing, which is an indication of its safety and purity.
9. Talk to Your Dermatologist About Vitamin B3
As the Skin Cancer Foundation points out, 1 in 5 Americans will develop skin cancer by age 70.
Nicotinamide, a form of vitamin B3 also known as niacinamide, may discourage skin cancer development. A recent retrospective study of 33,822 veterans found that taking 500 milligrams (mg) of nicotinamide two times per day for more than 30 days was associated with a 14 percent reduction in skin cancer risk. When started after a first skin cancer was diagnosed, it reduced the risk of a subsequent skin cancer by 54 percent. However, it’s important to note that excessive amounts of nicotinamide (more than 3,000 mg per day) may cause liver damage, so speak to your doctor about proper dosing, and never take nicotinamide if you have a history of liver disease.
Rogers recommends asking your doctor or dermatologist about taking nicotinamide in conjunction with an antioxidant plant extract called Polypodium leucotomos. While research is limited, emerging evidence suggests the efficacy and safety of this extract in the treatment and prevention of several skin diseases, such as nonmelanomia skin cancer, melanoma, pigmentation disorders, and photosensitivity, notes one review out of Italy.
“It doesn’t replace your sunscreen, but provides added [sun-protection] benefits,” Rogers says. Remember that you should always speak to your doctor before starting any new supplements.
The Takeaway
Mature skin does not have an official definition, but dermatologists describe it as skin that shows signs of aging, such as dryness, hyperpigmentation, and lines and wrinkles.
Some anti-aging skin-care tips include skipping cleansing in the morning if your skin is dry; “slugging,” which means applying a second layer of thick cream or ointment on top of the first; and adjusting retinoid use.
Certain supplements may improve skin health and may even reduce the risk of skin cancer, such as nicotinamide (a form of vitamin B3). But be sure to speak to your dermatologist or primary care doctor before starting any new supplement, as they aren’t regulated by the FDA and may interact with certain medications and chronic conditions.